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Framing: Difference between revisions
→Hard Matte and Open Matte Prints
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===Neutralizing the Intermittent=== | ===Neutralizing the [[Intermittent]]=== | ||
Sometimes called "neutralizing the Geneva" which refers to the internal mechanism. Making sure your intermittent is both centered (we'll go over how to do that in the framing mechanism section) and in a neutral position in relation to the [[Geneva mechanism]] is a must before starting any show. Neutralizing the intermittent must be done before threading a projector EVERY SINGLE TIME no matter what, regardless of whether or not your framing has been re-adjusted. | Sometimes called "neutralizing the Geneva" which refers to the internal mechanism in projectors that use a Geneva drive. Making sure your intermittent is both centered (we'll go over how to do that in the framing mechanism section) and in a neutral position in relation to the [[Geneva mechanism]] is a must before starting any show. Neutralizing the intermittent must be done before threading a projector EVERY SINGLE TIME no matter what, regardless of whether or not your framing has been re-adjusted. | ||
*To place it in a neutral position, place your fingers on the intermittent sprocket and advance manually. The intermittent sprocket does not rotate continuously, but in steps. Once it's completed a full rotation and stopped, it will be in a neutral position. You should be able to rock the manual advance back and forth a little bit with the intermittent sprocket remaining still. | *To place it in a neutral position, place your fingers on the intermittent sprocket and advance manually. The intermittent sprocket does not rotate continuously, but in steps. Once it's completed a full rotation and stopped, it will be in a neutral position. You should be able to rock the manual advance back and forth a little bit with the intermittent sprocket remaining still. If you find that the intermittent sprocket moves slightly while it is in the dwell state (so not during pull-down) that's a good sign that your intermittent is in need of repair. Any movement during the dwell state can result in jitter on screen. | ||
===The Framing Mechanism=== | ===The Framing Mechanism=== | ||
[[File:Simplex intermittent sprocket.JPG|thumb|300px| Intermittent sprocket on a Simplex X-L projector. Observe its range of motion and set to the center of its travel before threading.]] | |||
*From the [[Century]] Projector Manual: "''Rotation of the FRAME knob on the front of the projector causes the intermittent to move up and down. Observe the upper and lower limits of intermittent travel, and position the intermittent at the center of its travel. This will insure adequate movement up or down to correct accidental misframes. Always "center" the intermittent in this manner before threading.''" | *From the [[Century]] Projector Manual: "''Rotation of the FRAME knob on the front of the projector causes the intermittent to move up and down. Observe the upper and lower limits of intermittent travel, and position the intermittent at the center of its travel. This will insure adequate movement up or down to correct accidental misframes. Always "center" the intermittent in this manner before threading.''" | ||
*If you are working with a [[Simplex | *If you are working with a [[Simplex X-L]] you'll noticed the intermittent does not move up and down like the Century, but rotates. The same principle applies, position the intermittent at the center of its rotation, make sure the intermittent is in a neutral position, and then thread the film. | ||
*If you're working with a [[Kinoton]] you won't be able to see external evidence of the framing mechanism having been moved. But it is still very important that the intermittent is in a neutral position before you thread. To check for this, put your finger on the sprockets of the intermittent as you manually advance. Once you feel the intermittent make it's rotation, advance a tiny bit more (the intermittent should be still) and stop. | *If you're working with a [[Kinoton]] you won't be able to see external evidence of the framing mechanism having been moved. But it is still very important that the intermittent is in a neutral position before you thread. To check for this, put your finger on the sprockets of the intermittent as you manually advance. Once you feel the intermittent make it's rotation, advance a tiny bit more (the intermittent should be still) and stop. | ||
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===Hard Matte and Open Matte Prints=== | ===Hard Matte and Open Matte Prints=== | ||
See [[Aspect ratio]] for some examples of hard matted, or soft matte (sometimes referred to as full frame or open matte) prints. Some people refer to the matte as a "mask". So "hard mask" and "hard matte" refer to the same thing. | See [[Aspect ratio]] for some examples of [[hard matte|hard matted]], or [[open matte|soft matte]] (sometimes referred to as full frame or open matte) prints. Some people refer to the matte as a "mask". So "hard mask" and "hard matte" refer to the same thing. | ||
Hard matted prints have black bars on the top and bottom of the frame. If you are projected a print like this and it comes up put of frame, you will likely see these bars on the screen, making it fairly easy to frame correctly so that they are no longer visible. Soft matte prints do not have these bars at all and the projectionist must frame correctly without them. Follow the guidelines above for framing correctly, but then also pay attention to the image on screen. Look for things like heads being cut off if the framing is too high, lots of space over someone's head or the appearance of boom mics if the framing is too low. | Hard matted prints have black bars on the top and bottom of the frame. If you are projected a print like this and it comes up put of frame, you will likely see these bars on the screen, making it fairly easy to frame correctly so that they are no longer visible. Soft matte prints do not have these bars at all and the projectionist must frame correctly without them. Follow the guidelines above for framing correctly, but then also pay attention to the image on screen. Look for things like heads being cut off if the framing is too high, lots of space over someone's head or the appearance of boom mics if the framing is too low. | ||
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===[[Aperture plate]]=== | ===[[Aperture plate]]=== | ||
[[Category: Projector components]] | |||
[[Category:Showmanship]] | [[Category:Showmanship]] | ||
[[Category:Technique]] | [[Category:Technique]] | ||
[[Category:Equipment]] | |||