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Splicing: Difference between revisions
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===Tape=== | ===Tape=== | ||
* | * Yellow tape or zebra tape is often used when building prints for platter or reels larger than 2k feet so that the splice could be easily identified later when the print was broken down. When working with archival prints or making repairs, only ever use clear archival splicing tape. NEVER use tapes not meant for splicing such as scotch tape or masking tape! | ||
* Make sure your splices do not show any gaps, the ends of the film should meet perfectly. Gaps can cause the splice to bend at right angles or "hinge" when running through the projector, and the splice may break. A good way to check is the hold the film gently on either side of the splice and bend the film slightly upwards. The film should form a curve, if it makes an angle like a hinge you should check the splice. | |||
===RESOURCES=== | |||
* Splicing tape: [https://www.christys.net/ link Christie's Editorial] | |||
===Ultrasonic=== | ===Ultrasonic=== | ||
Revision as of 15:13, 30 March 2017
There are a few different methods for splicing two pieces of film together.
- Best splicers and splicing methods for different film gauges and different circumstances
Tape
- Yellow tape or zebra tape is often used when building prints for platter or reels larger than 2k feet so that the splice could be easily identified later when the print was broken down. When working with archival prints or making repairs, only ever use clear archival splicing tape. NEVER use tapes not meant for splicing such as scotch tape or masking tape!
- Make sure your splices do not show any gaps, the ends of the film should meet perfectly. Gaps can cause the splice to bend at right angles or "hinge" when running through the projector, and the splice may break. A good way to check is the hold the film gently on either side of the splice and bend the film slightly upwards. The film should form a curve, if it makes an angle like a hinge you should check the splice.
RESOURCES
- Splicing tape: link Christie's Editorial