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Inspection: Difference between revisions

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* Inspection forms
* Inspection forms
* Repairing film
* Repairing film
* How to wind smoothly
* How to wind smoothly and carefully
* Gloves? pros + cons
* Inspection environment





Revision as of 09:57, 3 August 2013

  • Things to look for
  • Inspection forms
  • Repairing film
  • How to wind smoothly and carefully
  • Gloves? pros + cons
  • Inspection environment


Inspection procedure from Filmteknik:

These are some screening room booth policies. It was assumed the reader knew how to do the tasks specified.

Check heads and tails of all reels.

Remake any questionable splices.

Remove ALL extraneous tape (masking tape etc.) Remove any multiple extra frames caused by platter people cutting instead of peeling open an old splice.

Conserve all frames if possible at all. Exception: If it’s just black and silent.

We remove multiple layers of splicing tape. Head leader should be spliced both sides. Tail leaders can be left single sided unless doing so leaves exposed sticky surface then cover it.

ANY SPLICE WHERE YOU CANNOT SEE THE 4-PERF PROGRESSION ON BOTH SIDES MUST BE PULLED THROUGH THE MEASURING DEVICE TO CHECK FRAMING.

Hand scribed dots should be measured on at least a few reels to make sure what standard they are using and whether they are consistent from reel to reel. If not take notes and adjust lace-up of subsequent reels. Try to avoid making extra dots. For example if C/O dots are too close to end make new ones but then measure the new distance to the motor dots rather than making new motor dots.

The standard I use for new dots is 22 frames to end (including the C/O dot frames) and 10’ 8 frames in between motor and C/O dots EXCLUDING dot frames. Once the C/O dots are made when you measure from before the first C/O dot back to before where the first motor dot will go the counter should be 10’ 12" since the measure will be including the motor dot frames.

INSPECTION SHOULD RESULT IN PRINT ON HOUSE REELS ATTACHED USING SLOTS NOT TAPE.