Splicing: Difference between revisions

Revision as of 12:33, 2 April 2017

There are a few different methods for splicing two pieces of film together.

Best splicer and splicing methods for different film gauges and different circumstances
proper tape removal
how to redo a splice, how to redo a splice on an archival print
perforated and non-perforated tape

Yellow, white, or zebra tape is often used when building prints for platter or reels larger than 2k feet so that the splice could be easily identified later when the print was broken down. When working with archival prints or making repairs, only ever use clear archival splicing tape. Yellow tape tends to be thinner, and also very hard to remove when left for long periods on a print. NEVER use tapes not meant for splicing such as scotch tape or masking tape!

Make sure your splices do not show any gaps, the ends of the film should meet perfectly. Gaps can cause the splice to bend at right angles or "hinge" when running through the projector, and the splice may break. A good way to check is the hold the film gently on either side of the splice and bend the film slightly upwards. The film should form a curve, if it makes an angle like a hinge you may need to redo the splice.

Cement splices can only be made when working with print of acetate film base

Ultrasonic splices can only be made with prints of polyester (or Estar) film base. They are generally considered permanent splices are should not be removed or redone by a projectionist.

Click to enlarge

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 ===Tape===
 * Yellow, white, or zebra tape is often used when building prints for platter or reels larger than 2k feet so that the splice could be easily identified later when the print was broken down. When working with archival prints or making repairs, only ever use clear archival splicing tape. Yellow tape tends to be thinner, and also very hard to remove when left for long periods on a print. NEVER use tapes not meant for splicing such as scotch tape or masking tape!
-====Making Proper Tape Splicers====
+====Making Proper Tape Splices====
 * Make sure your splices do not show any gaps, the ends of the film should meet perfectly. Gaps can cause the splice to bend at right angles or "hinge" when running through the projector, and the splice may break. A good way to check is the hold the film gently on either side of the splice and bend the film slightly upwards. The film should form a curve, if it makes an angle like a hinge you may need to redo the splice.
+===Cement===
+* Cement splices can only be made when working with print of '''acetate''' [[film base]]
+====Making Proper Cement Splices====
 ===Ultrasonic===
 * Ultrasonic splices can only be made with prints of '''polyester''' (or Estar) [[film base]]. They are generally considered permanent splices are should not be removed or redone by a projectionist.
-===Cement===
-* Cement splices can only be made when working with print of '''acetate''' [[film base]]
 ===Gallery of Splices===