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Inspection: Difference between revisions
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* Inspection forms | * Inspection forms | ||
* Repairing film | * Repairing film | ||
====Inspection procedure from [http://www.sprocketschool.org/w/index.php?title=User:Filmteknik Filmteknik]:==== | |||
'''These are some screening room booth policies. It was assumed the reader knew how to do the tasks specified.''' | |||
Check heads and tails of all reels. | |||
Remake any questionable splices. | |||
Remove ALL extraneous tape (masking tape etc.) | |||
Remove any multiple extra frames caused by platter people cutting instead of peeling open an old splice. | |||
Conserve all frames if possible at all. Exception: If it’s just black and silent. | |||
We remove multiple layers of splicing tape. Head leader should be spliced both sides. Tail leaders can be left single sided unless doing so leaves exposed sticky surface then cover it. | |||
ANY SPLICE WHERE YOU CANNOT SEE THE 4-PERF PROGRESSION ON BOTH SIDES MUST BE PULLED THROUGH THE MEASURING DEVICE TO CHECK FRAMING. | |||
Hand scribed dots should be measured on at least a few reels to make sure what standard they are using and whether they are consistent from reel to reel. If not take notes and adjust lace-up of subsequent reels. | |||
Try to avoid making extra dots. For example if C/O dots are too close to end make new ones but then measure the new distance to the motor dots rather than making new motor dots. | |||
The standard I use for new dots is 22 frames to end (including the C/O dot frames) and 10’ 8 frames in between motor and C/O dots EXCLUDING dot frames. Once the C/O dots are made when you measure from before the first C/O dot back to before where the first motor dot will go the counter should be 10’ 12" since the measure will be including the motor dot frames. | |||
INSPECTION SHOULD RESULT IN PRINT ON HOUSE REELS ATTACHED USING SLOTS NOT TAPE. | |||
[[Category:Film handling]] | [[Category:Film handling]] | ||