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Inspection (view source)

Revision as of 12:09, 12 September 2016

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* Repairing film
* Repairing film
* How to wind smoothly and carefully
* How to wind smoothly and carefully
* Gloves? pros + cons
* Inspection environment
* Inspection environment




====Inspection procedure from [http://www.sprocketschool.org/w/index.php?title=User:Filmteknik Filmteknik]:====
====Inspection is one of the most important steps in the process of screening a film print. 1.It's a process of gathering information about the film print itself so you can project it properly. 2. It's a way for you to access print condition so you can avoid further damage 3. It's a way for the distributor or archive know what condition their print is in.====


'''These are some screening room booth policies.  It was assumed the reader knew how to do the tasks specified.'''
'''Print Inspection Supplies (for reel to reel projection)'''
*split reel (2000 ft)
*goldberg reels (2000 ft, at least 12) DO NOT PROJECT ONTO SHIPPING REELS
*Light box. If your rewind table doesn’t have one built in we find these light pads work well: [http://www.smithvictor.com/products/detail.asp?prodid=456&id=55&pid=38&s1=Logan+Electric+Products&s2=Slim+Light+Pads+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++&nm=A%2D7A Logan Portable Light Pad]
*razor blades
*small flashlight
*loupe
*white archival tape ( often called artist’s tape) PH neutral/acid free
*small scissors
*splicer
*frame counter or frame ruler
*china marker/grease pencil (black or white only!)
*sharpie (acid free)
*lint free cotton gloves (for when you are handling anything other than the edges of the print)
*leader/replacement countdowns
*lint free cloths
*[http://www.amianet.org/sites/all/files/date_code.pdf Kodak date code chart]
*inspection report


Check heads and tails of all reels.
Remake any questionable splices.
Remove ALL extraneous tape (masking tape etc.)
Remove any multiple extra frames caused by platter people cutting instead of peeling open an old splice.
Conserve all frames if possible at all.  Exception:  If it’s just black and silent.
We remove multiple layers of splicing tape.  Head leader should be spliced both sides.  Tail leaders can be left single sided unless doing so leaves exposed sticky surface then cover it.
ANY SPLICE WHERE YOU CANNOT SEE THE 4-PERF PROGRESSION ON BOTH SIDES MUST BE PULLED THROUGH THE MEASURING DEVICE TO CHECK FRAMING.
Hand scribed dots should be measured on at least a few reels to make sure what standard they are using and whether they are consistent from reel to reel.  If not take notes and adjust lace-up of subsequent reels.
Try to avoid making extra dots.  For example if C/O dots are too close to end make new ones but then measure the new distance to the motor dots rather than making new motor dots.
The standard I use for new dots is 22 frames to end (including the C/O dot frames) and 10’ 8 frames in between motor and C/O dots EXCLUDING dot frames.  Once the C/O dots are made when you measure from before the first C/O dot back to before where the first motor dot will go the counter should be 10’ 12" since the measure will be including the motor dot frames.
INSPECTION SHOULD RESULT IN PRINT ON HOUSE REELS ATTACHED USING SLOTS NOT TAPE.


===External Links===
===External Links===
Retrieved from "http://www.sprocketschool.org/wiki/Special:MobileDiff/1470"

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