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*<u>Polyester</u>: is slightly thinner and tends to stretch rather than just snapping. Polyester stock began being used for 35mm prints in the early 90s (it was used for 16mm much earlier). Post mid 90s basically everything is polyester (often referred to as Estar base which is the Kodak trade name). They say when acetate snaps it’ll break the print, when poly snaps (or stretches) it’ll break your projector!   
*<u>Polyester</u>: is slightly thinner and tends to stretch rather than just snapping. Polyester stock began being used for 35mm prints in the early 90s (it was used for 16mm much earlier). Post mid 90s basically everything is polyester (often referred to as Estar base which is the Kodak trade name). They say when acetate snaps it’ll break the print, when poly snaps (or stretches) it’ll break your projector!   
*<u>Film stocks/dates</u>: If you want to know the date of the print use the [http://www.amianet.org/sites/all/files/date_code.pdf Kodak Edge Code Chart]. There are some film stocks (like Agfa) that don’t have date codes. Remember that the date print was made is NOT always the date that the film was released but it’s helpful to know if you have a vintage print on your hands.
*<u>Film stocks/dates</u>: If you want to know the date of the print use the [http://www.amianet.org/sites/all/files/date_code.pdf Kodak Edge Code Chart]. There are some film stocks (like Agfa) that don’t have date codes. Remember that the date print was made is NOT always the date that the film was released but it’s helpful to know if you have a vintage print on your hands.
*<u>[[Film damage]]</u>: Check for existing damage so you can prevent further damage, so you know how the print will look on screen, and so you can notify the lender of what condition the print was in when you received it. Get to know your audience, do they need to be warned when a print is severely scratched or faded? Is the damage going to affect their viewing experience? See the section on film damage for specific terms.


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