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Framing: Difference between revisions
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*If the film is threaded while the intermittent is in the incorrect position and then re-adjusted as the film is running it can cause your top and bottom loops to become either too small or too large, increasing the chance that they will be hitting a hard surface within the projector, causing scratches. "Slap scratches" are often caused by this very thing. | *If the film is threaded while the intermittent is in the incorrect position and then re-adjusted as the film is running it can cause your top and bottom loops to become either too small or too large, increasing the chance that they will be hitting a hard surface within the projector, causing scratches. "Slap scratches" are often caused by this very thing. | ||
*If the framing is adjusted while the film is running and the operator fails to reset it before the next reel, you may attempt to adjust the framing AGAIN and discover that you have reached the limits of the framing mechanism. I.e you adjust the framing all the way in one direction but the picture is still out of frame on screen, and you can move the framing mechanism no more. At this point the operator must stop the film, reset the framing mechanism to center, neutralize the geneva, re-thread, and start the film again. Not only is this bad showmanship, but stopping the film on picture can cause scratches. | *If the framing is adjusted while the film is running and the operator fails to reset it before the next reel, you may attempt to adjust the framing AGAIN and discover that you have reached the limits of the framing mechanism. I.e you adjust the framing all the way in one direction but the picture is still out of frame on screen, and you can move the framing mechanism no more. At this point the operator must stop the film, reset the framing mechanism to center, neutralize the geneva, re-thread, and start the film again. Not only is this bad showmanship, but stopping the film on picture can cause scratches. | ||
==Inspection== | |||
Things to look for during the [[Inspection]] process in regards to framing are: | |||
*check splices! Make that any frames spliced together are COMPLETE frames. The number of perfs in a complete frame will depend on what film gauge you are working with, 4 perfs for 35mm, 2 perfs for 16mm, 5 perfs for 5/70mm etc. If an incomplete frame (a frame a perf or two cut off) attached to a complete frame will cause the film to "jump" out of frame during your screening. | |||
*make a note of whether the print has a hard matte or not. Some prints have a hard matte for some scenes and no matte for others. Make a note if the lab splices in an anamorphic print seem larger than normal or might be visible on screen. | |||
*Check to make sure any subtitles are "title safe", i.e they won't be cropped out by the aperture plate. Same goes for changeover cues, make a note if they are very close to the top of the frame, or very low in the frame. | |||
===Hard Matte and Open Matte Prints=== | ===Hard Matte and Open Matte Prints=== | ||
See [[Aspect ratio]] for some examples of hard matted, or soft matte (sometimes referred to as full frame or open matte) prints. | See [[Aspect ratio]] for some examples of hard matted, or soft matte (sometimes referred to as full frame or open matte) prints. Some people refer to the matte as a "mask". So "hard mask" and "hard matte" refer to the same thing. | ||
Hard matted prints have black bars on the top and bottom of the frame. If you are projected a print like this and it comes up put of frame, you will likely see these bars on the screen, making it fairly easy to frame correctly so that they are no longer visible. Soft matte prints do not have these bars at all and the projectionist must frame correctly without them. Follow the guidelines above for framing correctly, but then also pay attention to the image on screen. Look for things like heads being cut off if the framing is too high, lots of space over someone's head or the appearance of boom mics if the framing is too low. | Hard matted prints have black bars on the top and bottom of the frame. If you are projected a print like this and it comes up put of frame, you will likely see these bars on the screen, making it fairly easy to frame correctly so that they are no longer visible. Soft matte prints do not have these bars at all and the projectionist must frame correctly without them. Follow the guidelines above for framing correctly, but then also pay attention to the image on screen. Look for things like heads being cut off if the framing is too high, lots of space over someone's head or the appearance of boom mics if the framing is too low. | ||