Welcome to Sprocket School! This project is maintained by volunteer editors. Learn more about how this works.

Rewind bench: Difference between revisions

Jump to navigation Jump to search
→‎Best Practices: Updated recommendation for rewind speed. A few other minor copy edits.
m (→‎Best Practices: Capitalization on bullet points)
(→‎Best Practices: Updated recommendation for rewind speed. A few other minor copy edits.)
Line 55: Line 55:
* Having trouble getting a warped film to wind? Trying winding it over/over or under/under. Make sure it’s not rubbing against the side of the reel.  
* Having trouble getting a warped film to wind? Trying winding it over/over or under/under. Make sure it’s not rubbing against the side of the reel.  
* Check for bent spindles. Can be straightened out by a machinist, or you can buy new ones. Bouncing can mean the bearings are going bad or you need to replace the pad.  
* Check for bent spindles. Can be straightened out by a machinist, or you can buy new ones. Bouncing can mean the bearings are going bad or you need to replace the pad.  
* Speed: generally not past 40%, slower is better!
* Speed - Slower is better. When inspecting film, you should be winding it slowly enough that you do not have to rewind after feeling damage. If you're overshooting, you're winding it to fast.
* When using Kelmar tables, 20% motor power is typically appropriate for inspection, while 30% is appropriate for rewind. Do not exceed 40%.
* Rewinding onto reels that are out of round/not true (slowly but surely…)
* Rewinding onto reels that are out of round/not true (slowly but surely…)
* Auto Stop: It can “sometimes” help to get a tighter wind on warped prints, make sure the roller is clean if you use it. Never leave rewind bench unattended while film is rewinding.
* Auto Stop - It can “sometimes” help to get a tighter wind on warped prints, make sure the roller is clean if you use it. Never leave rewind bench unattended while film is rewinding.
* Common problems: ''telescoping'' and ''cinching'' on loosely wound prints, ''proud edges'' (when some edges are raised or sticking out of the reel). Never ship a print with proud edges on the reel, they can be crushed easily and cause edge damage.
* Common problems: ''telescoping'' and ''cinching'' on loosely wound prints, ''proud edges'' (when some edges are raised or sticking out of the reel). Never ship a print with proud edges on the reel, they can be crushed easily and cause edge damage.
* Tension winds: Learn how to do a tension wind (i.e wind the film onto the core of the reel WITHOUT putting the end of the film into the slots. NEVER tape the film to the reel or core. Use a tension wind for the take up reels on your projectors as well.
* Tension winds: Learn how to do a tension wind (i.e wind the film onto the core of the reel WITHOUT putting the end of the film into the slots. NEVER tape the film to the reel or core. Use a tension wind for the take up reels on your projectors as well.
470

edits

Navigation menu